The Alpine Club of Canada - Vancouver Section

Alpine Practice - Climbing Steep Snow (FULL) - Sun, Dec 3 2017

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PRE-REGISTRATION MAY BE REQUIRED. Please review the event details carefully, and if registration is required and you'd like to join us, you must sign up at the bottom of this page. Non-member guests must contact the leader (see Notes below) to register. If payment is required for this event, you will be expected to send your payment to the Event Leader - payable to the Alpine Club of Canada, Vancouver Section.

The Basics:
Event Type:Training
Event Location:See Travel Plan (by email)
Date(s) & Time:Sun, Dec 3 2017  8:00 AM
Registration Cut Off: Thu, Nov 30 2017 8:00:00 AM
Event Duration:8 hours
Difficulty Rating:D2: Moderate
Event Leader(s): Serguei Okountsev
You must be logged in to get the Event Leader contact information.
Member Cost:None

Participant Info:
Who's Invited: Members Only, 18 & Older Only
Attendee Screening: Attendees are Pre-Screened - Trip Leader will review your background and may contact you before accepting you on the trip.
Number Registered So Far: 4 (To see who's signed up, log in to the Member Area)


General considerations

  • Climbing equipment review: gloves, pants, boots, crampons, ropes, snow pickets, runners, backpack slings, mechanical ascenders, ice tools, ice axes, leashes, nylon cords, sewn slings, prusiks, shock absorbing slings.
  • Snow: how steep is steep? Slope meter.
  • Snow temperature: warm, cold, isothermal. Freezing levels. Snow thermometer.
  • Snow: hard, compact, soft.

Modes of travel - when to use

  • Trekking poles
  • One pole and an ice axe
  • Ice axe only
  • Ice axe and ice tool

Moving on soft snow

  • Alpine walk.
  • How to carry and grasp an ice-ax. Gloves. Leash.
  • Ascending: direct, diagonal.
  • Traversing.
  • Descending: facing out, facing in. About glissading.
  • Self-belay. Dagger modes (upper, lower).
  • Self-arrest. Four base types of falls.

Low fall-factor belays

  • Boot-ax belay.
  • Heap belay.
  • Sitting belay.
  • Running belay.

Moving on hard snow

  • About crampons: how to properly to tie the strap. Position of the knot. The dangers of the catwalk.
  • French / American / German techniques.

Roped Climbing

  • Roping up. Partner check.
  • Shortening/extending the rope.
  • Snow pickets: carrying and placement. 1,2 - point anchors.
  • Climbing in rope teams of two: climbing voice commands. Belaying the leader, belaying the second, pitching, cleaning,
  • End of the pitch protocol.
  • Short roping
  • Climbing in rope teams of three. Passing an anchor.
  • Downclimbing. Traversing. Aretes.
  • Rappelling: off a snow picket, off a snow bollard.
  • Caches: hauling up/ lowering (2:1, 3:1)

Fixed Ropes

  • Setting up.
  • Climbing up/down (using Jumars / TiBloc / Ropemaster / Prusiks )
  • Fixed Running belays


Required Items to Bring:

30-70 m 8-mm half rope (or else)
harness + belay device (Reverso type)
ice ax with a (accordion) leash on a locker
carabiners: 5 lockers + 1 large pear shape
anchor material: cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra)
mechanical ascender (e.g. Tiblock, Ropeman, Jumars)
two 61-cm snow pickets with runners attached
personal emergency kit incl. medical
headlamp with spare fresh batteries

Recommended Items to Bring:
Use our Event Checklists to make sure you have everything you need.

Avalanche beacon, shovel, probe
Hammer ice tool on a accordion leash
Snow thermometer
Shock absorbing sling
Slope meter
Shoulder gear sling w plastic biner

  • We don't practice in bad weather. If forecasted P.O.P. (weat exceeds 30% the trip will be automatically cancelled. This is beyond trip organizer's control - short notice cancellations are quite possible and do occur.
  • This is not a course - you must have minimum alpine experience and prior formal training.
  • Be sure to check SPAM folder for important messages regarding this event.

Formal mountaineering training.
Must have climbed at least one Alpine Select route.

IMPORTANT: You must pass minimum screening requirements above. The trip organizer will use your ACC profile to check courses you have taken and peaks you have climbed. You can also provide additional information in this form (click here): Alpine Experience

- We encourage all members to follow our Etiquette Guidelines at all times while participating in ACC VA events.

Cancellation/Partial Attendance:
Please review our Etiquette Guidelines!
Note: If you don't show up we will be very hurt!

Very sorry, but members with history of bailing or no-shows in the past 12 months can't attend this session.

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