The Alpine Club of Canada - Vancouver Section
Wed, Jul 1 2009, Thu, Jul 2 2009, Fri, Jul 3 2009, Sat, Jul 4 2009, Sun, Jul 5 2009 - Jim Haberl Hut Climbing Camp (View Original Event Details)

Event Leader(s): Paul Geddes
Participants:Paul Geddes

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Write Up:
We had a terrific 5 days up at the Haberl Hut. There was a total of 9 flew in to the J Haberl Hut on Wed July 1 and stayed to Sunday July 5. The weather was totally bluebird for the 5 days. Stunning. Lucky. The hut is in great shape. There were 3 others staying there as well - they had done a traverse of the Tantalus and were putting in a few more climbs before flying out on July 4.

The first day everyone got up the N face of Serratus - a nice warm up - relatively short ~ 2hr ascent on steep snow. Next day, 3 of the group (Paul, Willa & Neil) had a go at Tantalus. They had a very long day and ended up benighted at the bottom of the rappels on ledges. Others climbed Dione in a reasonable day.

The next day four of us (Dave H, Arnie, Margaret & myself) went for Tantalus, taking some food and water for the first group that had overnighted. We met them early morning coming up from the rubbly ledges to regain the snow shoulder below Dione. We passed them and continued up following the "high" route in Alpine Select. The route-finding is really tricky, but this time of year is good, crossing the moats at the bottom below Dione wasn't too hard. But we wouldn't have got up without some good beta from Paul and Neil, plus our "recce" attempt last year, plus info from a guide (Tim Pochay) who was there leading Ilze Rupners on a course, and finally great topo of the rap route from 3 guys who did the Tantalus traverse, bivvied and then stayed a couple days at the hut. Was a long 16 hr day return, back the hut just by sunset.

After that it was a rest day for us. Others in the group made day trips south from the hut to Ionia and Pandareus. The last day some of us went for a short scramble up the ridgeline N of the Haberl Hut - mostly Class 3, with a few 4th bits and one short low 5th class step. Overall a great short week. Some of my pix are on Flickr at: Tony's photo album. Also some photos from Zoran: Zoran's photo album

Submitted by Tony Knight

Have some photos from this event that you'd like to share in our photo album? Please forward them to Kayla Stevenson at Please note that we prefer to receive the photos in approximately 640x480 or 750x500 pixels - do NOT send original high-res photos. If you have a LOT of photos, please submit up to twenty of your favorites (only) for a day event, or up to forty of your favourites for a multi-day event. Thank you.

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