The Alpine Club of Canada - Vancouver Section
Sat, Apr 27 2019, Sun, Apr 28 2019 - Mt. Shuksan (via White Salmon Glacier) (View Original Event Details)

Event Leader(s): Amir K
Participants:Amir K, Mandana Amiri, Tyler Cuthbert, Chuck Protheroe, Erich Baumann, Jessica Mitter

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Write Up:

Attempted Shuksan via White Salmon Glacier on April 27. Encountered quite a bit of bushwhacking-creek crossing issues to drop down to the valley bottom. Getting higher in the White Salmon Creek valley we noticed old debris of a massive avalanche covering almost entire width of the valley just before the buttress. Probably a size 3 in Canadian Avalanche grade. Picked the safest way up by bootpacking right through the steep middle part of the buttress while at times heavy snowfall. Slightly above the top of the buttress dug a pit to investigate the snow pack. We found 15cm of unconsolidated unbonded fresh snow (F) on top of hard crust followed by 15 cm of frozen layer (P) on top of very wet isothermal pack to the bottom of the pit (4F). Did the ECT which produced no result, however shovel pull cracked the top layer at top of isothermal wet layer. After pushing another hour decided to turn around at the toe of glacier and camp at top of the buttress and enjoy the view.

Looks like April 18 rainstorm did a lot of damage to the snow pack and it needs a few freeze- thaw cycles to become stable and safe to climb.


Snowpack summary

  • Date and time: April 27, 4:00pm
  • Location: 48°50'20.8"N 121°37'25.3"W (48.839116, -121.623689)
  • Weather observation: snowfall morning to noon, then cloudy
  • Layer boundaries: 1m pit, 4 layers, fresh snow, frozen crust, wet grains
  • Snow hardness: 15cm F, Thin K, 15cm P, 70+cm 4F
  • Snow grains: Wet bottom layer
  • ECT test: ECTX

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